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Sauternes Sorbet

I’m great at following recipes. I’m moderately good at modifying them. Actually creating recipes out of thin air that can compete with what I find in good cookbooks… Well, that’s usually another story. But – today – I think I may have stumbled upon a winner. An original winner that I can call my own and that hopefully you will love as much as I do.

1971 Rieussec SauternesWe had a bottle of 1971 Château Rieussec Sauternes after dinner a few nights ago. This is a fantastic Sauternes which is still going strong after four decades. It’s rich, full-bodied and sweet, but not cloying, with delicious notes of citrus, apricot, and honeysuckle and a nose that will knock your socks off – better yet, don’t wear socks while drinking this. The color is gorgeous – a very rich, deep golden that bespeaks its age.

Sauternes is, as the name suggests, a sweet wine from Sauternes which is located just to the southeast of Bordeaux, France. What makes Sauternes a truly special wine region is that noble rot occurs with great frequency. For those not familiar with how Sauternes comes to be, the word rot undoubtedly strikes a bit of terror into the heart. Indeed, in centuries past, the wine makers kept the use of Botrytis (noble rot) a secret, lest the consumers discover that they were drinking wine made from rather unappetizing looking shriveled grapes infected with fungus. As it turns out, people eventually caught on to what was going on, but no doubt any hesitations and feigned disgust magically disappeared after the first sip.

Given my love of both fungi and wine, it should come as no surprise that I love the science behind how a fungus and wine grapes can get together and turn Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle grapes into something radically different. Noble rot is the common name for the necrotrophic fungus Botrytis cinerea, which infects several plant species, but most notably wine grapes. Noble rot requires a sort of “perfect storm” of conditions to occur – moist conditions followed by dry conditions. If the moist conditions persist for too long, the Botrytis shows its uglier side and can destroy the entire crop. Even in an area like Sauternes, where the conditions are prime for noble rot to occur, there are still many years which result in a poor harvest, or none at all. When the ideal conditions occur, noble rot removes water from the grapes and leaves behind concentrated sugars and flavors. By the time the grapes are picked, the noble rot has reduced them to a small shriveled size which yields a much lower quantity of juice than an uninfected grape would. Since it can take an entire vine to produce a single glass of Sauternes, the cost for most bottles is substantially higher than for many other wines.

1971 Rieussec Sauternes

A maritime climate in Sauternes allows for cool mornings that bring the fog required to kickstart the noble rot, and sunny afternoons allow the grapes to dry, preventing the rot from spreading too quickly and turning into the destructive form of grey rot that can threaten the entire crop. The morning fog is produced when the cold water from the Cerons, a small stream with a swift current, meets the Garonne, a large warm river with a slow moving current.

Now, on to the recipe! I have seen only a few references to Sauternes sorbet before, including one made at Alinea using just liquid nitrogen whisked into Sauternes. No doubt this was delicious, but I wanted to create something a little more complex that made use of Sauternes without being made of only Sauternes. Since the Rieussec I used for this already had notes of citrus, I decided that using citrus as its companion for this sorbet was bound to turn out well. The final result is delicious – the Sauternes is readily evident but not overpowering and blends perfectly with the citrus, while the egg whites keep it very light and easy to scoop even after a full day in the freezer. Depending upon the Sauternes you choose to make this recipe with, you may want to alter the amount of sugar used to reflect the existing sugar content of the wine.

Sauternes Sorbet

1 1/4 cup water

1 cup chilled Sauternes

1/2 cup granulated white sugar

Juice of two oranges

Juice of one lemon

2 egg whites

Squeeze the juice from two ripe oranges and one lemon, straining out any pulp and seeds. In a saucepan, dissolve the 1/2 cup of sugar into 1 1/4 cups of water and bring to a boil. Allow to simmer for 5-10 minutes and then allow the syrup to cool completely. Pour the chilled Sauternes and chilled sugar syrup into a bowl and mix in the strained citrus juices. In a separate bowl, whip the egg whites until stiff (but not dry). Fold the beaten egg whites into the mixture of Sauternes, syrup, and citrus juice. Add the completed mixture to your ice cream maker and prepare to enjoy an exotic desert that will delight and impress.

 

Sauternes Sorbet

1971 Rieussec Sauternes Sorbet

1971 Rieussec Sauternes Sorbet

1971 Rieussec Sauternes Sorbet

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Collecting and Cooking Wild Oyster Mushrooms

Picking wild oyster mushrooms in CaliforniaIt’s time again for…another mushroom entry! If you can’t tell, I’m becoming mushroom obsessed. How could I not, surrounded by lush redwood forests filled with edible & incredible mushrooms? Some folks find the concept of collecting wild mushrooms to be frightening and repulsive – to that, I say, “more for me.”

The other day I came across a solitary oyster mushroom, Pleurotus ostreatus, which said to me “there must be more around here!” Nearly everyone is familiar with oyster mushrooms – they are commercially cultivated and are available in many grocery stores. Like many commercially grown produce, the cultivated version doesn’t even compare to what you can find in the wild. I went out into the woods this morning thinking I’d find at least a few more. I returned with over five pounds of oyster mushrooms. The oyster mushrooms available in grocery stores tend to be rather sad looking little things that would cower in the presence of the massive monsters I harvested today.

Collecting Wild Oyster mushrooms in California

If you haven’t already read last week’s entry – A Prince in the Forest – Collecting Edible Mushrooms, I will repeat the same advice in this one. When in doubt, throw it out! There is not a single mushroom out there that is worth dying for. If you are going to collect and eat wild mushrooms, do not go off what any random person on the internet says (and that includes me!). If you can, learn from someone with experience and always read as much literature as you can. It might seem like one way to go about experimenting with unfamiliar mushrooms would be to take a tiny bite and wait a while…and if nothing happens, it’s safe to eat. Bad idea! The toxins in many mushrooms can take hours to cause any symptoms – some even take several days and others can take as long as three weeks to cause symptoms. During the time it takes to develop symptoms, the toxins wreak havoc on the liver or kidneys and in can be fatal. In plain English, don’t experiment.

At the opposite extreme from the needless risk takers are the folks who, intent on covering their own posteriors, insist that only trained scientists should eat wild mushrooms. State governments often issue yearly warnings instructing people to “avoid eating any wild mushrooms,” as if all wild mushrooms were deadly. Of course, this is silly as well, since millions of people around the world collect and eat wild mushrooms without incident each year. The key is not to become an expert on every mushroom (and indeed any expert will tell you that that is impossible) but to become an expert on a few individual species.

As I recommended in the previous mushroom entry, David Arora’s book, Mushrooms Demystified, is a must have guide that you should read and reread.


Wild oyster mushrooms growing on oak in CaliforniaI went off this morning in search of more wild oyster mushrooms, and indeed there were more – lots more. I had a hunch about where I might find some and that hunch proved to be quite fruitful. Five pounds of oyster mushrooms later and I hadn’t even collected half of what was growing on a downed oak log. I wasn’t the first to discover the patch though – there were plenty of deer bite marks in some of the mushrooms and banana slugs happily gorging themselves on others. There is nothing that a banana slug loves more than a tasty mushroom. Unfortunately, there is nothing that I love more either, so we find ourselves at odds. Apparently banana slugs are marginally edible, but since I fancy myself more as a gentleman farmer and forager than a Bear Grylls sort, I think I will stick with the abundant mushrooms.

To harvest oyster mushrooms try to work your fingers as close to the base of the stems as you can to lift the entire mass as a whole, rather than ripping off little pieces. In North America there are not too many toxic species to get the oyster mushroom confused with, but the Jack O’Lantern Mushroom (Omphalotus olivascens) and the Ivory Funnel Mushroom (Clitocybe dealbata) both bear enough resemblance (and contain the toxin muscarine) that it pays to be overly cautious, as with any mushroom. Like many an enthusiastic mushroom gatherer, I gathered some mushrooms that were not worth gathering – if you have plenty of plump, moist mushrooms there is no reason to waste time on the shriveled and dried mushrooms that are a bit past their prime. If you’re out hunting, the logical place to look for oyster mushrooms is down, on downed logs and stumps, but you should also be looking up – I found a big clump about 12 feet up an oak tree. They were past their prime though, so they were left in-situ.

Cooking wild California Oyster Mushrooms

And now for the best part – eating the mushrooms. I decided to make a simple pasta with these mushrooms…something quick and easy that lets the mushrooms take center stage. This recipe makes enough for two to three people (who love mushrooms). As always, I’m not a huge fan of specific measurements and

 

8 oz of fettuccine (any pasta will work equally well)

1 pound of oyster mushrooms (a pound is a lot, if you aren’t as crazy about mushrooms as I am, you could reduce the quantity)

1 dozen asparagus shoots

3 garlic cloves

2 tbsp butter

3 oz Olive Oil

Salt to taste

Black Pepper to taste

 

Cooking time for this entire dish is relatively short, so depending upon the type of pasta you use you will probably want to start it at the same time that you begin sautéing.

Cooking wild California Oyster MushroomsBrush the mushrooms off to remove any soil and leaves and be sure to check the gills for tiny beetles that might be lurking. Trim off any parts of the mushroom that have become discolored and dry. Smaller mushrooms you can leave whole, larger mushrooms can be sliced or torn into chunks about 1 1/2 inches square. Mince the garlic and sauté in a large pan for a minute or two with olive oil and butter – I use both which increases the smoke point of the olive oil, but you could stick with just olive oil if you preferred. Add the asparagus and saute for about a minute before adding the mushrooms. Add salt to taste and stir frequently. Make sure the mushrooms are coated with the olive oil and stir frequently to cook them evenly. Like all mushrooms, oyster mushrooms will cook down, but they hold their shape and size much better than many varieties. Cooking time will probably be around ten minutes on the oyster mushrooms, but your best bet is to just sample a few while they’re cooking. You’re looking for the mushrooms to be very tender and turning a light golden color. About a minute before you finish sautéing, add the black pepper and toss the mushrooms to ensure even coverage.

Remove from the heat & toss with the pasta, serve, and enjoy!

A 1993 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, arguably one of the best Chablis wines of the last few decades, paired perfectly with this meal. One could go on for a few paragraphs or even pages about this wine, but I think “Wow!” sums it up nicely.

Cooking wild California oyster mushrooms - oyster mushroom and asparagus pasta

Cooking wild California oyster mushrooms - oyster mushroom and asparagus pasta

Cooking wild California oyster mushrooms - oyster mushroom and asparagus pasta

 

Cooking wild California oyster mushrooms - oyster mushroom and asparagus pasta

Cooking wild California oyster mushrooms - oyster mushroom and asparagus pasta

Cooking wild California oyster mushrooms - oyster mushroom and asparagus pasta

Cooking wild California oyster mushrooms - oyster mushroom and asparagus pasta

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Heath Ceramics


Sausalito is a small city of around 8,000 residents located just to the north of San Francisco. Picturesque views, temperatures that rarely climb above 65 degrees, and its close proximity to the Golden Gate Bridge have made Sausalito a very popular tourist destination. Sausalito was my destination to visit the factory and store of Heath Ceramics, founded by Edith Heath in 1948.

Edith Heath’s work resides in many museums and collections around the world, including the Museum of Modern Art in New York City. Sadly, Edith passed away in 2005, but her legacy and passion lives on. An exhibit of Vintage Heath Ceramics can be seen at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA) in the exhibition “California Design, 1930 – 1965: Living in a Modern Way.”

All products are made in their factory in Sausalito by 60 skilled craftsmen in the same kilns built in 1959 by Brian Heath when the factory originally opened that year. The tableware made here is of the highest quality, typically simple in appearance, but with subtle artistic characteristics that easily set it apart from department store pottery. It’s no wonder that customers return year after year, decade after decade….and as a testament to the quality, Heath is one of the few remaining mid-century potteries still in action.

One of the things that truly sets Heath Ceramics apart is that all of their tableware is made locally, something that is next to impossible to find in today’s outsourced world. While not priced to compete with mass-produced pottery manufactured by the millions in Asian factories, Heath’s domestically produced tableware lasts for a lifetime.

My favorite of their tableware lines is the “Coupe”, originally designed in the 1940′s. Readers of It’s Just Light will undoubtedly recognize the simple, yet elegant design in other entries. One of their newest lines is the Chez Panisse line, a collaboration between Heath Ceramics, Christina Kim, and of course, Alice Waters.

In addition to tableware, Heath also produces tile. In fact, Edith Heath was the first non-architect to win the AIA Gold Medal Award for her exterior tile at the Norton Simon Museum in Pasadena, California. Their gallery of Heath Tile installations is certainly inspiring – I encourage my many interior designer friends to have a look. For those of us who aren’t quite ambitious enough to undertake a big tile project, their house number collections are pretty fantastic. I particularly like the Eames collection in paprika.

Heath Ceramics Kilns

Reaching a maximum of 2,100 degrees Fahrenheit, the fifty year old kilns fire around 400 pieces of tableware each day.

Heath Ceramics Kilns in Sausalito, California.Heath Ceramics Kilns in Sausalito, California.Heath Ceramics Showroom in Sausalito, California.Heath Ceramics Showroom in Sausalito, California.Heath Ceramics Showroom in Sausalito, California.Heath Ceramics Showroom in Sausalito, California.

Heath Ceramics Coupe Line Plate

A plate from Heath's Coupe line in action!

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Roasted Banana Ice Cream

Roasted Banana Ice Cream - recipe adapted from David Lebovitz

For my birthday last year, Caitlin gave me a CuisinArt automatic ice cream maker. Having always been an avid consumer of ice cream, but never a producer of it, I had no idea how easy and inexpensive it was to make my own. Not only can you avoid eating 17 varieties of chemical nastiness by making your own homemade ice cream, you can also make flavors that you will never find on a grocery store shelf. There are thousands of ice cream recipes online, but there is nothing quite like having a cookbook written by an authority on the subject – David Lebovitz’s book, The Perfect Scoop, is that must-have guidebook to all things ice cream. From the perennial favorites like chocolate and vanilla to the wilder (but equally fabulous) concoctions like Fresh Fig Ice Cream and Olive Oil Ice Cream.

Roasted Banana Ice Cream - recipe adapted from David LebovitzDavid Lebovitz is an authority on all things dessert, and if you buy only one book of ice cream recipes, The Perfect Scoop should be it. Perhaps my favorite among all of the recipes of his that I’ve tried is the Roasted Banana Ice Cream. It’s simple to make, doesn’t require any exotic ingredients, and is incredibly delicious. I have made this ice cream so many times now that I know the recipe by heart. I have made a few modifications to it, and you certainly can modify it even further. I have never been a strict follower of recipes and have found that with ice cream in particular you have a bit more freedom to add and subtract ingredient amounts than if you are making something like bread.

What I used to make this:

           

Adapted from David Lebovitz’s Roasted Banana Ice Cream recipe:

2-4 Ripe Bananas (I only had two very large bananas & it turned out perfectly – I have also increased the number to four. Lebovitz’s original recipe calls for three.)

1/3 Cup Brown Sugar (depending upon how many bananas you use you can either add a little or subtract a little, but 1/3 cup gives the perfect amount of sweetness in my opinion)

1 tbsp Butter (I have made the ice cream without butter when I found that I had run out, and it also turned out just fine)

2 cups Whole Milk (The original recipe calls for 1 1/2 cups, but I haven’t noticed any decrease in flavor by adding a bit more and since I love to eat as much ice cream as possible, 2 cups goes even farther)

2 tbsp Granulated Sugar

1/2 tbsp Vanilla Extract

1 1/2 tsp Lemon Juice

1/4 tsp salt

Directions:

Preheat your oven to 400 F. For this recipe you will want bananas that are ripe and yellow – brown spots are fine – the riper the better. Peel them and slice them – the size of your slices doesn’t really matter, but I usually make the slices about 1/4 of an inch thick. Put the sliced bananas in an oven safe baking dish and toss them with the butter and brown sugar. I typically melt the butter to make it easier to coat the bananas with.

Bake for 30-40 minutes until the bananas are browned, stirring them once while cooking. You don’t want to burn them, just to bring them to a beautiful golden brown to release their natural sweetness. In the oven I used, 30 minutes was enough.

Roasted Banana Ice Cream - recipe adapted from David LebovitzOnce you take them out of the oven scrape the bananas and syrup from the dish into a food processor or blender. I just used an immersion blender while making it this time and found that to work fine as well. Add the granulated sugar, vanilla extract, lemon juice, salt, and whole milk and puree until very smooth.

Refrigerate the mixture – some versions call for 4-8 hours or even overnight, but really you just want to get it cold enough so that your ice cream maker’s chilling chamber stays frozen for long enough to make the ice cream. I really have no patience to wait almost a full day before eating the ice cream I just made, so I just use a second freezer bowl which I can put the pureed mixture right into. Instead of waiting 8 hours for the mixture to cool, it only takes about 15-20 minutes. If you don’t have a spare freezer bowl, you could try chilling a glass bowl in the freezer prior to making the ice cream and that will at least cut down on the cooling time a bit. Once the mixture is cold, you can put it into your ice cream maker and within about 20 minutes you will have ready to eat Roasted Banana Ice Cream that will be an instant hit.

Let me know if you make it (you really should) & how it turns out! Do you have a favorite ice cream recipe? Share it as a comment. :)

Roasted Banana Ice Cream - recipe adapted from David Lebovitz

Coat the bananas with the brown sugar & butter

Roasted Banana Ice Cream - recipe adapted from David Lebovitz

Roasted Banana Ice Cream - recipe adapted from David Lebovitz

Roasted bananas fresh out of the oven

Roasted Banana Ice Cream - recipe adapted from David Lebovitz

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A Prince in the Forest – Collecting Edible Mushrooms

There are old mushroom hunters and there are bold mushroom hunters, but there are no old AND bold mushroom hunters. I’m neither old, nor bold but love mushrooms just the same. Living the good life isn’t just about eating in the classiest restaurants – it’s also about wandering through the redwood forests in search of wild foods to cook in your own home – few of which are as exciting to find as wild mushrooms.

Edible Agaricus augustus mushrooms in the San Francisco Bay Area

A few days of rain and fog here in California’s San Francisco Bay Area have gotten the mushrooms excited and I was ecstatic to find this small crop of Agaricus augustus (Common name, The Prince). I’m not an adventurer when it comes to mushrooms (I like spending my days not clutching my stomach in agony, thanks) and only eat what I’m 110% positive about. The infamous Death Cap (Amanita phalloides) also grows here and so exercising abundant caution is never a waste of time. Although they can bear somewhat of a passing resemblance, there are very distinct differences between the two mushrooms.

Wild California Mushrooms - Agaricus augustus

For anyone reading this and feeling a tingle of mushroom envy, I would recommend picking up a copy of Mushrooms Demystified by David Arora. The following are some words of wisdom from the fantastic book:

Mushroom hunting is not simply a matter of traipsing through the woods after it rains. It is an art, a skill, a meditation, and a process. If you proceed at a careful, deliberate rate, you’ll enjoy much more success than if you rush around frantically picking whatever mushrooms you see, then stuff them in your basket, bring the whole mess home and dump it on your table.

…It is far better to learn a few species well than a large number superficially.

Cooking Wild California Mushrooms - Agaricus augustusAgaricus augustus is one of those few mushroom species which I feel confident about, and fortunately, it’s also one of the most delicious. While the latin name may make these mushrooms sound quite exotic, you are undoubtedly already familiar with Agaricus – the mushroom most people consume more than any other is Agaricus bisporus, aka. the Portobello Mushroom. While Agaricus bisporus grows in the wild it is also easy to cultivate and is widely sold in grocery stores under various names. Young bisporus which are typically white are sold as button mushrooms. Slightly larger and darker mushrooms get sold as “baby bella” mushrooms, and the big ones are of course sold as Portobello mushrooms. The batch of Agaricus augustus mushrooms I collected this time were of moderate size, but they can reach up to 40 centimeters in diameter and indeed I have found examples this large before(they were delicious). I spotted these Agaricus mushrooms two days earlier, but decided to wait a day or two to see if they would increase in size. No such luck, and when I noticed that some small forest creature had been indulging himself on one of the mushrooms, I decided it was time for me to indulge. Prior to cooking, you’ll probably notice that Agaricus augustus has a scent very reminiscent of almonds. A little olive oil, salt, and pepper and you’ve got a meal of The Prince fit for a king.


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